|
Post by wardourdrive on Dec 31, 2006 21:17:14 GMT
Just done an oil change on the S and now it won't start. It sounds like the starter just keeps clicking. I seem to ahve oil dripping from around the oil drain plug. My tourgue wrench doesn't go low enough for the correct setting so I did it hand tight plus a little more. Any clues as to what I can check. I can feel a line near the oil drain plug, is this supposed to be here or have I really fucked it and cracked the oil pan. I know its New Years Eve but any help is appreciated.
|
|
|
Post by wardourdrive on Dec 31, 2006 21:59:08 GMT
OK I have checked again and I have cracked the Oil Pan. Now what?? Can it be fixed? Is it expensive to replace. I feel such a tit
|
|
|
Post by Les on Dec 31, 2006 22:21:03 GMT
First things,the clicking noise (probably the least of your problems) sounds like just a flat battery. The clicking noise is the soleniod throwing in and out without engaging the starter. The oil drain pan is gonna require a bit a specialist welding to maintain the strength around the threads,although you could try a drop of mazel metal. In the short term a drop of instant gasket might stop it leaking all overthe floor. Hope next year starts better than this one has finished.
|
|
|
Post by floog on Jan 1, 2007 2:38:10 GMT
Sorry to hear of your misfortune WARDOURDRIVE.....hope you get it sorted soon and that it's the only bad luck you'll have for a good while
|
|
|
Post by wardourdrive on Jan 1, 2007 11:15:14 GMT
thanks guys. To be honest this is just s small thing to end a crappy christmas. A friend passed away from cancer just before xmas and my mum has been given 6 months due to tumours in teh brain. Not want to burden anyone with that sort of thing. I am annoyed with myself for this REX mishap. So I need a specialist welder. Great I am sure we have non around here So I guess I will have to phone my local bike shop and see if I can find one. Trucker is mazel metal easy to get hold of, I ahve never heard of it. Happy 2007 to all
|
|
|
Post by firmhand on Jan 1, 2007 12:15:48 GMT
Sorry to hear about your xmas wardourdrive. As for the Rex for what its worth i did exactly the same thing on a GPz 550 a few years back, then as i refitted the oil pan an o ring dropped out of the bottom of the engine which resulted in me siezing the bugger. Never touched an engine since, except for basic servicing. Took the pan to local motorcycle engineers and they sent it of for welding, took about a week was a good while ago so can't remember what it cost.
|
|
|
Post by wardourdrive on Jan 1, 2007 14:43:56 GMT
Well they reakon shit happens in 3s so I ahve had all 3 in a couple of weeks.
Anyway as a temp measure I have bought some leak seal as the crack doesn't appear major, oil is not pissing out just a very slow drip. Will loosen the drain plug a little and apply some.
That should cure the drip/crack for a while, until I figure out what to do next. Need to get me confidence back on that one.
Going to charge the battery, doesn't help me optimate packed up in the summer but have a charger from halfrauds which does bikes as well
|
|
|
Post by Les on Jan 1, 2007 18:33:40 GMT
Trucker is mazel metal easy to get hold of, I ahve never heard of it. I must admit, this is the second time I have recommended the stuff, but it is something we used in the navy for pipe repairs, the closest I have seen to it in halfrauds is plastic metal, its a bit like araldite, in the fact that is a two pack mix.
|
|
|
Post by wardourdrive on Jan 2, 2007 5:30:21 GMT
battery charged and she lives, well I say charged only a little. New Optimate ordered and a new Torque wrench ordered at the same time. Both from M&P. Crack sealed using leak selant, from local car shop and it is a 2 part mix thing. Leak seems to have stopped. Teach me to make my bit more less, if you know what I mean.
|
|
|
Post by wardourdrive on Jan 2, 2007 10:04:26 GMT
Cost for a new Oil Pan and gasket are as follows
Part No 490341139 oil Pan £98.76 Part No 110091981 Gasket £12.36
Both prices include VAT so not as bad as I thought it would be. No idea about welding as haven't found out but if I am taking off the old one I might as well just replace it
|
|
|
Post by firmhand on Jan 2, 2007 10:30:26 GMT
Just a thought but it may be worth getting an impact socket for removing/replacing the sump bolts with all the talk about "cheesy bolts" may stop you rounding them of, its all i use on mine and there not that expensive to buy.
|
|
|
Post by wardourdrive on Jan 3, 2007 18:38:40 GMT
took the REX out for a quick trip to the train station at 0545hrs this morning. Left there all day chained up of course. No Oil leak or puddle and the ride home was ok also. The Yoshimura did what it said on the advert. Sounded fruity but not too loud. No curtains twitching this morning.
|
|
|
Post by BADGER on Jan 3, 2007 18:53:37 GMT
Thank god every thing is OK, I must admit you had me sweating, thinking i could do that to mine.......mmmmmm £100 for a sump...not bad i suppose.
|
|
|
Post by wardourdrive on Jan 3, 2007 20:34:48 GMT
Cheers MichaelZRX. I am still sweating. I have a drip tray full of kitty litter incase REX needs to go during the night, its sat under the sump. Looking in the manual section 6-10 I think. To replace the sump you need to Drain the oil Drain the coolant Remove fairing (Especially on S) Remove tank Possibly remove exhaust Then pray it will all go back together. I am seriously thinking I might leave it for another 1500 miles when it is due the 7500 mile service as most of this I think is done anyway. All this just to get to 6 bolts. Let this be a lesson to all
|
|
|
Post by BADGER on Jan 3, 2007 22:03:21 GMT
....Looking in the manual section 6-10 I think. To replace the sump you need to Drain the oil Drain the coolant Remove fairing (Especially on S) Remove tank Possibly remove exhaust .............All this just to get to 6 bolts. remove tank and fairing......why? That sounds like taking the roof of ya house to flush the drains.
|
|