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Post by oldninjaron on Aug 1, 2006 20:15:33 GMT
Bought my SREX with full Akrowatsit zorst, K&Ns and Dynojet Stage 3 fitted. She certainly flies and sounds great with it but she is a pig in town or stuck behind slow traffic - up to just short of 3 thousand revs. This setup worked great on all my original ZX10s but then again I fitted them myself. I seem to remember that Dynojet kits came with a selection of mainjets but that Stage 3 was for a race exhaust, mine is not. Anybody out there got the same setup? Mine misses, occasionally backfires, perhaps I should not be insulting pigs but I cannot help it - sounds like it is running too rich? !!!!!!!
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Post by lightspeed on Aug 1, 2006 22:30:12 GMT
Didn't use the Dynojet kit (Ivan's kit from NY) so can't help you there. Ivan's kit was basically plug and play.
Any idea which of the possible jet/needle sizes from the Dynojet were actually installed?
Does sound like its running a bit rich at the lower RPMs.
Is it running clean at high RPMs?
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Post by oldninjaron on Aug 2, 2006 7:15:28 GMT
Unfortunately the remainder of the kit did not come with the bike, came from a shop, nor do I have the instructions. I just have the bike with all fitted nor do I have the original parts. Something did come to mind though - would having this KTRIC system affect the outcome of these mods? I have no idea how it works it sounds like a play on a sensor driven system not unlike a fuel injection bike/engine with sensors planted all over.
It does seem to run clean above 3k although it is v difficult to tell but it does fly over these revs and does not miss or backfire.
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Post by lightspeed on Aug 2, 2006 19:01:24 GMT
Could be wrong, but my understanding is that the KTRIC system simply adjusts ignition timing based on the throttle position. If the jetting is set up properly with a bike with these kinds of mods I am unaware of any time when the KTRIC has been a problem.
Certainly when you start to get into cams, carbs, and more exotic stuff, there are those who swap in an igniter box from more modern bikes that extend the rev limit, etc., but I think you're issue is primarily getting the jetting worked out. I know that the idle circuit, mains and needles all impact different portions of the rev band but don't have that in my head. I think I have a chart somewhere that indicates which part of the carburation system affects what part of the rev range. I'll see if I can dig it up for you, since it might give an idea of where to start looking.
Edit: Found the chart but its too big to post the way it is. Basically the idle/slow jet is the primary control on off-idle response up to about 1/4 throttle, which is then picked up by the clip position on the needle. The main jet and the WOT needle size affect your full throttle response (which seems to be OK, so I'm guessing that the basic jetting is not too bad).
My guess is that the low speed circuit may be out, tweak that a bit and see what happens, then look at the clips on the needle, which affects where in the rev band the needle starts working.
My $.02.
Maybe someone who has a lot more detailed knowledge can help out with more detailed advice.
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Post by ZRX Gremlin on Aug 2, 2006 19:01:44 GMT
KTRIC = Kawasaki Throttke Response Ignition Circuit (or something like that)
I've never heard of anybody meddling with that or disconnecting it and actually gaining anything, although I could be wrong, it won't be the first time.
As such the system works and works well. Best left alone IMO
As for the low speed misfire I had exactly the same problem on my old 1100. It is probably a fuelling problem, especially as you say it appears to run fine once you get the revs up. A trip to the tuners and a run on the dyno may help diagnose the problem and enable the adjustment/selection of the correct jets.
Sorry can't be more help than that.
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Post by oldninjaron on Aug 2, 2006 19:12:33 GMT
Thanks for the info gentle fellows. I have since acquired electronic version of Dynojet Instructions for this bike and will check to make sure all has been fitted correctly damned if I am going to put up with the equivlaent oops equivalent of the '80s where everybody was fitting aftermarket zorsts without setting them up - cheers.
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Post by oldninjaron on Aug 2, 2006 19:19:02 GMT
Thanks Lightspeed great info - Dynojet instructions are very clear about settings/needle position so doubly important for me to check these - can easily be checked without removing carbs which I will do if necessary perhaps if mainjets need fettling.
Cheers
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dave
Sunday Rider
Posts: 32
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Post by dave on Aug 13, 2006 20:30:45 GMT
check that standard zrx springs are fitted not dyna jet as the latter overfuel, standard springs slow slides down. just richen pilots up 1 turn to smooth transition. Also dont have main jet that dyna jet recommends as this is too rich top end put in what they recommend for standard exhaust and she,ll rev clean to rev limiter As for KRIC system once set at manufacturers setting its your fueling thats the problem ALSO check work done by previous owner ie needles set in correct groove as per dyna jet kit
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Post by oldninjaron on Aug 14, 2006 7:35:21 GMT
Thanks for the advice Dave. I bought the bike with these mods from a dealer so do not have original bits. Before I try these must take thew bike out for a run as found remaining vacuum hoses - not used for fuel tank and scottoiler - connected together but then left open not connected to anything else. Had just replaced plugs when it started misfiring constantly, must have scared the local wildlife s******s, then noticed pipes. Stuck my thumb over the pipe and started running quietly but can see rev counter fluctuating slightly - perhaps need a balance. I then noticed that some pillock had connected the scottoiler directly to the carb rather than to a t piece . Makes balancing mighty awkward. Have since blanked off vacuum points on remaining carbs and she does not even backfire when letting the throttle snap shut from high revs - looks promising.
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dave
Sunday Rider
Posts: 32
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Post by dave on Aug 14, 2006 18:12:46 GMT
i take it , that your bike has the blanking plates fittted on top of the head [old emision hoses and valve ] removed . if that is correct, your bike wont pop through exhaust because there is no air entering through ports to burn in system . the popping you had was caused by a vacum leak in hoses. I would check all vacum hoses connected properly. ie/ 3 carbs blanked 1 connected to tank [ i teed off that for scot oiler] SO that is what the dealer HAVE DONE GOD KNOWS WHAT THEY to the jetting of the carbs i reckon they have fitted the kit as per instuctions but fitted a main jet too large for your area ie/ unless you live in the mountains over fuelling loses power and torque, peak power usually tops out at 8500 then tails off gradually by redline , if over fuelled it drops off dramatically try backing off throttle at 8000 a bit ,if overfuelled it will smooth off and accelerate breifly
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