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Post by oldninjaronzrx on Mar 15, 2013 16:03:25 GMT
Not had the bike long and weather has been pretty ropey. Took her out for a quick blast today as have just fitted 4 degree advance roter and stick coil mod - would not normally carry out two mods at once but stick coils and loom worked fine on my old ZX11 C3. Everything was great on the way out tons of torque and power but loads of traffic. On the way back took her up to just over a ton - top gear rollon great - felt as gutsy as my old ZX11.  Not sure gearing standard though approx 5000 revs at approx 82 mph indicated?  Got home and tickover very ropey then died, would restart but not good. Thought perhaps going on to reserve so tried prime. Later on started no problem but found fuel coming out of airbox - turned back to reserve seemed ok when engine not running - sounds like float valve/valves stuck open? |
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Post by lightspeed on Mar 15, 2013 16:29:53 GMT
See if you can find a way to give the float bowls a bit of a tap with a screwdriver handle or something like that. That will sometimes jar a stuck float valve loose. Not a hammer, they are cast and will break.
If it comes unstuck, drain the fuel out of the float bowls and then let them fill again. Sometimes there is crud in the bowls.
Is the inside of you tank clean? Might be an idea to install an inline fuel filter between the petcock and the fuel feed line to the carbs to keep gunk out of the carbs.
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Post by oldninjaronzrx on Mar 15, 2013 17:44:12 GMT
Thanks lightspeed. Nothing would surprise me, typical Kawasaki. Thankfully when checked aroma coming from oil filler just smelt of used oil. I should also have checked for vacuum in tank re the initial symptom. I have had tank off when fitting Stick Coils at least did not sound like full of rust pieces. I also had to drain off some fuel to use in remote tank whilst attempting to balance carbs - very nice and clear. I am amazed that this bike has no other filter than that in petcock but good advice!
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Post by Burchy on Mar 15, 2013 21:59:05 GMT
Sounds like a stuck float needle. Try disconnecting and blocling off the vacuum pipe from No1 carb to the fuel tap. This means that you can only get fuel to the carbs on "prime". Turn it to prime and get it going, then turn the fuel to off. The bike will then start to use up the fuel in the floatbowls and it can't flood. Had exactly the same problem on YB s 11 when he first got it
As the fuel starts to get used up the offending floatbowl fuel level will come down to a more normal level and the engine should smooth out. We were lucky in that whatever was holding off the needle cleared or dropped to the bottom of the floatbowl and the needle started to work OK. We re-connected the vacuum pipe and went off for a spin round the block. No more problems for us.
It my well be that you will have to pull the carbs and clean them. Good luck with that!
Got to be worth trying the above method first, though
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Post by oldninjaronzrx on Mar 22, 2013 9:25:59 GMT
Emptied/drained fuel out of all carbs - all fuel fresh and clean. I then ran some carb cleaner into each carb and left over night. My plan was then hopefully to prime some fuel in and see, if any, which carb was flooding. That is till I took a closer look at manual and bike - you have to remove carbs before you can remove airbox and you cannot just remove filter/rear part of airbox?  ?!!!!!!! Nightmare. |
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Post by oldninjaronzrx on Mar 22, 2013 9:35:45 GMT
I am sure that many of you have been faced with this crazy set up hence bikes out there with pods fitted if not just for performance gains but also to make carb cleans etc much easier.
Tried to remove carbs ended up with four useless mishapen rubbers from airbox. As I have "Jota" bars dismantled bar ends to give plenty of spare on throttle cables. So carbs off - hardly any water spilt - supported left hand side ready to do battle with airbox. Airbox looked like it had already been in the wars - holes and cracks all over covered in tape. Pods had arrived day before - £80 ish. Fitted largest mainjets from dynojet kit whilst inspecting floats etc - just a couple of v small bits of debris about, unbelieveably clean, all praise to previous owner.
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Post by oldninjaronzrx on Mar 22, 2013 9:49:18 GMT
I now turned my attention to what I was going to do with battery with no airbox? I believe there are some mod kits out there but for the moment having bought pods so needed a temporary measure. It seemed sensible, if possible to retain rear part of airbox so that filter cover could be left in to allow battery cover to be refitted - surely job done.
As front of airbox pretty battered and cracked decided that I would keep top to reattach to frame, this allows refit of rear/filter cover and battery cover.
Destroyed airbox leaving top mounting points, bolted to frame, bolted rear airbox to the same, refitted filter cover, refitted battery cover - not pretty but battery staying in place, nice and secure. Carbs back in position but not tightened up.
Once I have found some new fuel hose - original stuffed - will then prime the carbs and see if stopped flooding but at least I will be able to see if not sorted where fuel is coming from!
Above mod seems sensible especially if never going to refit airbox, cheap also. It may have been done before but if not I commend it to all who need it.
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Post by oldninjaronzrx on Mar 22, 2013 9:55:29 GMT
Apart from anything else took a great deal of satisfaction in hacking the airbox to bits frustration gone ;D ;D |
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Post by lightspeed on Mar 22, 2013 14:57:29 GMT
Took my carbs off when I rejetted. That blasted airbox thingy never saw the light of day again. I think it is the one piece of original REX parts that I have thrown away - as far as I could throw it.  Carb work is a piece of cake now.  |
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Post by oldninjaronzrx on Mar 22, 2013 15:52:39 GMT
Never a true word has been said my friend.  |
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