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Post by guyver1 on Oct 30, 2011 17:02:32 GMT
I've fitted a complete new set of locks to the bike today, ignition, petrol cap, seat lock and helmet lock. Fitting the ignition barrel ended up with me removing the clutch reservoir pipe. Not a problem as I can just bleed the clutch, yeah right. I spent 20mins bleeding the slave cylinder and got no air, just clean fluid. Great that should be done, but although I've got pressure at the clutch lever I've also got tiny bubbles coming to the top through the reservoir, if I move the bars from side to side I get more bubbles. I've checked the pipe I removed and it's nice and tight, so could these bubbles just be trapped air or do you think it's a leak
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Post by Burchy on Oct 30, 2011 17:58:29 GMT
You've just got to persevere and bleed all the air out of the master cylinder. Move the bars around so that the reservoir is at the highest point. Just a slight movement of the lever will open the orifices (orifi?)in the cylinder and allow small bubbles to get out into the reservoir. You might have to do this loads of times to bleed the master cylinder but each one only takes a fraction of a second, so no big deal. It WILL come right in the end and, no you don't have a leak, assuming you put the banjo on again properly.
Phoenix will be along soon and suggest that you crack the banjo bolt whilst under a bit of lever pressure, just to get any odd bubble out, so I won't suggest that here as well
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Post by guyver1 on Oct 30, 2011 18:16:31 GMT
Cheers Burchy, I've got a tie wrap around the clutch lever at the moment to help bring the bubbles to the top, is there a correct angle that the reservoir should be at, as removing and replacing the bars may have the reservoir in a different position. Phoenix, 19mm pad thickness all round on my car
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Post by Burchy on Oct 30, 2011 19:33:03 GMT
Guess it depends on whether you use a paddock stand or the prop stand. Whichever just manoeuvre it so that the m/C is the highest point so that bubbles will get to the top and can escape
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Post by guyver1 on Oct 30, 2011 20:29:07 GMT
Where does the other end of the clutch hose finish??
I'm looking at replacing all hoses after Christmas as the rear brake is standard and looks awful, the front are braided with clear plastic over the top but there going mouldy in between the braiding and the clear plastic.
Also, I've got 3 hoses fitted to the front brakes, 1 to a coupler under the headlight cowling, and 2 off the coupler which go to either caliper at the front. The kits I've seen only seem to list 2 hoses for the front brakes. Have I got a special system fitted or are the kits not listed correctly?
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Post by Burchy on Oct 30, 2011 20:36:04 GMT
The clutch line goes to the slave cylinder behind the sprocket cover.
Most braided replacement lines are the 2 line variety. they do away with the splitter and both bolt on to the master cylinder with an extra long banjo bolt. Some will say that having just 2 lines will make the brakes sharper, but I can't see it, personally, as having only one from the M/C to the splitter means that you have less overall length of hose in the system
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Post by guyver1 on Oct 30, 2011 21:00:22 GMT
The clutch hose is a huge thick rubber type, but the slave side is a metal pipe, don't they have a joint hiding under the tank somewhere?
Hmm not sure about fitting just 2 hoses, if Kawasaki spent lots of money on research and development, do I really want to stick 2 fingers up to them and change the hose layout? Definitely food for thought methinks.
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Post by Burchy on Oct 30, 2011 21:16:21 GMT
On the silver Rex, I've got a 3 line braided setup on the front, using the original splitter
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Post by guyver1 on Oct 30, 2011 21:20:35 GMT
Think I'll stick to the original 3 hose set up too, the front brakes are fine as they are, only want to fit new lines as the ones fitted are manky.
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